Trekking in Uganda's Bwindi Forest: One of the last remaining habitats in the world for the Mountain Gorilla
Bwindi National Park, formerly known as Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, has been proclaimed as a World Heritage site. The park covers 331 sq km and is one of the last remaining habitats in the world for the endangered Mountain Gorilla. The Mountain Gorilla is a highly endangered specie and only about 600 are still alive today. Almost half of these live in Bwindi and the rest around the area of the Virunga volcanoes in Uganda, Rwanda and Congo.
Just a couple of days ago I took a scenic early morning flight from Entebbe and headed southwest to Kisoro, where I've spent the past day relaxing on Lake Mutanda. Now it's time to pack my camera bag for the journey out to the Bwindi forest, home to half the surviving Mountain Gorillas in the world.
The day has begun to dawn as my enthusiasm increases for a day of tracking free ranging apes and marveling as they go about life in their natural habitats. The scenic drive from Kabale heads up a steep pass and the views are remarkable. The sight of valleys, fertile fields and tea plantations are dream-like. The unpaved dirt roads are bumpy and turns through the mountainous rainforest and green hillsides are scences out of a movie. After a 45 minute bumpy drive, I've arrived to meet my guide, Florence Mbabazi.
During my briefing I learn that 4 trackers have set out at 5am to help us locate the Gorillas and Florence will be communicating with them by two-way radio. We will also be accompanied by two Ugandan armed police officers for our protection against wildlife. Being in the wild you never know what can happen.
We enter the rainforest by the Nkuringo enterance and cross the Munyaga river. We soon leave the main path and head through thick vegetation.
Florence uses a machete to clear a path but it's still a tough path to be trekking and soon I'm heading up a steep mountainside.
During my trek, I take the opportunity to learn more about Florence and her work with the Ugandan Wildlife Authority. Florence tells me she grew up living in and around the Bwindi forest, ‘ it was natural for me to enter into the tourism industry because I know this forest better than anyone. I grew up here and this is my home.’ When I ask if she ever feels any pressure from the men about having a male dominated role, her reply, ‘the men give me maximum respect. Many men want to do my job but they are not strong enough. They don’t have the endurance I have.’ When I ask what she enjoyed about her job, ‘it keeps me fit and I enjoy talking with people about conservation.’ Florence studied Tourism and Hotel Management at Celak Vocational College in the Kisica district. In her free time she enjoys spending time with her two children. When asked about her hopes and dreams for the future of conservation she says, ‘I hope people will continue to respect nature and the Gorillas' habitat. I want the Gorillas to be safe and have a stress free life that way they will be here for hundreds and hundreds of years.'
After three hours of trekking, we hear from the trackers. They are on the Gorillas's trail. I'm excited we're on the Gorilla's path! When we find them, there must be absolute silence and at least five meters distance must be kept from the Gorillas as not to habituate them to humans. I will have one hour with the Gorillas and an amazing hour I'm sure it will be.
Florence receives a message from our trackers, 'A family of 11 Gorillas are just up ahead.' As we move ahead in the dense undergrowth we quickly spot a male silverback waking from a nap against a tree. Then a mother and baby appear. It's just my luck, Florence informs me that there is a family just above us in the trees. The silverback who is still waking does not seem to be fazed by our presence. As I take some photos of him he seems to gaze at me with a relaxed facial expression.
An adult female emerges from the bushes with an infant on her back and the whole family is now on the move. We beat through thick undergrowth and find they have all climbed up some nearby trees. Another silverback emerges and sets to rest on the ground nearby, while in the branches other family members are relaxing.
All too soon, our 60 minutes are up and Florence alerts me 'it's time to leave'. It's been an amazing day for photography and such a thrill to meet these amazing creatures in their natural habitat. Being in the company of the most peaceful, rarest and endangered of all the apes and having the opportunity to photograph a highly endangered specie has been an experience I will never forget.
Thank you to all the women and men that work tirelessly patrolling the Bwindi Forest keeping the forest free of poachers and safe for all wild things to roam happily and freely.
3 Comments
Aug 15, 2018, 8:13:10 AM
Matilde Simas - Thank you Linda.
Jul 12, 2017, 10:55:47 AM
Linda J. Hirsch - These gorillas are blessed to live far from those humans who would harm them. Your respect for their unique needs and pristine territory is matched only by the skill with which you captured their souls and the tenacity with which you accessed this sacred place on earth which most of us will only see through your well-composed images and beautifully-written blog. I am very proud of and excited for you. This is a stunning body of work. Your trackers and guide, Florence, deserve great credit for their role in protecting and revealing this hidden world and its free-ranging inhabitants.
Jul 10, 2017, 12:43:20 PM
Karen S Wirima - Thank you so much for your article and amazing pictures of the mountain gorillas I hope to get to see one day
Soon. Great to meet Florence who is helping protecting these amazing creatures! Your pictures are amazing and looking toward to the complete interview with Ranger Anthony Ochieng!
Thanks,
Karen S Wirima